Giorgia Eugenia Goggi of Masseria Moroseta: I Want To Give Our Guests The Best Ingredients Available In Our Territory
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi can be found ‘learning her mise en place’ in the kitchen at Masseria Moroseta, Puglia, Italy. Cooking for guests and staff using only local and organic ingredients, many picked from their orto (vegetable garden) for a true farm-to-table experience. Whether it’s cannoli with sheep ricotta, or ravioli with cime di rapa, her dishes are comforting and thoughtfully prepared. We asked Giorgia to share one of her favourite recipes, infused with Puglia at its core.
Please tell us a little about your approach to regional cooking.
– I’m really interested in regional cooking, I moved to Puglia one year ago so I still have to learn a lot of things about local traditions. When I go to farmers’ markets I always spend some time chatting with street vendors, asking what people are cooking in that time of the year, which ingredients are at their peak and how you should pair them. At the same time I love to mix traditional cooking with different influences, techniques and spices. At the Masseria Moroseta dinner table you can easily find dishes like fish ceviche, handmade dumplings, miso-turmeric spiked consommé, sweet and spicy tagine and ice-creams infused with wild herbs.
Are most of the ingredients you use sourced on-site? What grows particularly well in this part of Puglia?
– Masseria Moroseta is an eco-friendly project, we give a lot of importance to sustainability, recycling and power saving. I try my best to have the same approach in my kitchen, I want to give our guests the best ingredients I can find in our territory. Puglia produces incredible olive oil, amazing vegetables, high quality grains and beans, the freshest dairy products I’ve ever tasted and outstanding seafood.
On the art of handmade pasta, do you have any special advice?
– I find pasta making very relaxing, I do it at least once a week. Sounds a bit obvious but the true key is practice and time. At the beginning it’s normal that your ravioli all look different, they will taste good anyway, don’t stress about it. I use a clear plastic ruler to cut my pasta sheets all the same and work little quantities at a time, so it doesn’t get dry.
LAMB MEATBALLS IN TOMATO & SPRING ONION SAUCE
In Puglia meatballs are a very important issue. Each family has its own secret recipe, every proper Sunday meal starts with a big batch of fried meatballs. This is my version, I like to pair lamb with citrus, raisins and mature cheese. You can serve them as an appetizer, as a sauce for a pasta, or even as a main dish with fava bean purée and garlicky greens.
350 gr ground lamb
150 gr ground pork
120 gr soft breadcrumbs
75 gr grated mature cheese, such as pecorino
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 orange, zested
1 lemon, zested
50 gr chopped raisins
Put the ground meat in a bowl and sprinkle herbs, cheese, breadcrumbs, citrus zest, raisins, salt and pepper. Add beaten eggs and work it gently, by pushing and folding with your fingers. Take a small amount of the mixture and cook it in a pan, taste and adjust the seasoning. Let it rest in the fridge for 1 hour. Shape into tiny balls, and arrange on a baking sheet.You can cook them in the oven (10-12 minutes at 200°), fry them or cook them directly in tomato sauce.
TOMATO, SPRING ONION SAUCE
1 lt tomato puree
4 spring onions, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 pinch of cinnamon
1 pinch of ground cumin
10 basil leaves
2 bay leaves
Salt and pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
Heat a large skillet over a medium heat. Add some olive oil and garlic and cook slowly to toast until it is very soft, fragrant and nicely golden brown, Remove garlic and add onions, season with salt and pepper and cook until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add tomato sauce, herbs, spices and let it cook gently for half an hour. Taste and adjust with salt and pepper. Once the sauce is ready, remove the herbs and gently add the meatballs and let it simmer for 30 minutes. Serve with cacioricotta cheese and fresh mint.
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