Every now and then people ask me how I started surfing, so I thought I’d share the story about how surfing became one of the very best parts of my life.
I had just broken up with my long-time boyfriend and felt more than lost – I didn’t have a clue about what I was going to do with my life. Everything felt wrong: my work at Elle, going out and even living in Sweden. Around Christmas I went to Brazil for a month. I still felt completely lost, but life on a beach felt a lot nicer than Stockholm in December. The last week I got to borrow a board from a friend and paddled out. After catching my first wave my whole body was shaking for half an hour. The adrenaline was rushing and I could not stop smiling. The next day I bought my very first surfboard.
From that day I just knew that this was something I had to treasure, something that I HAD to hold on to. On my next trip I meet my husband (yes, we got married in France – can’t wait to show you the pictures!). He was supposed to be my instructor, but I didn’t listen to him much. We had a lot of fun next to each other in the water though, and I thought he was so beautiful on his surfboard. I can’t even describe with words how happy I am that we share the love of surfing. Surfing together with Dylan this summer was like an out of body experience and I thought: can one person bare this much happiness?
Surfing not only makes me feel more alive than anything else does, it also lets me the best version of myself. I have never felt this way about a hobby or sport. I actually think working out is really boring, but now that I have a goal (like getting stronger arms for paddling) I feel like doing it all of a sudden. All I needed really was a purpose for my exercise.
The only downside with surfing for me is that I don’t get to do it every day. But I hope that will change, some day.
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