It's early morning we've just arrived to Torö. The sun has not risen yet, but it's quite light already. The morning air is crisp and as we make our way down to the rocky beach the wind increases.
It’s early morning we’ve just arrived to Torö. The sun has not risen yet, but it’s quite light already. The morning air is crisp and as we make our way down to the rocky beach the wind increases.Down at the beach I am happy to see a few small waves. Super excited I run back up to the car to jump into my wet suit. I’m not even bothered to bring my gloves with me – something I regret after spending 10 minutes in the cold water. But after 20 minutes I have forgotten everything about cold hands. I’m paddling like a crazy person on every wave that comes towards me. I am zigzagging in between the rocks and at one point I’m really close to hit one with my board. Still I can’t help myself – if I’m going to catch a wave today I need to be really close to the beach, which unfortunately means being close to all the big rocks… Finally I catch a wave, it’s short but sweet. No hang five today either. Not even close. But I go back home to Stockholm with a smile on my face.And like I told you before, one of the first things I learned about surfing: The one with the biggest smile is the winner, always.The day after, I continue my notorious practice on my skateboard longboard, going down the streets of Stockholm with five toes outside of the board. I promise myself that by the end of of this summer I will have done at least a cheater five. To be continued…
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