The first things you have to learn with surfing? Patience, and completely surrendering to nature.
The first things you have to learn with surfing? Patience, and completely surrendering to nature. The first thing mentioned is a skill that most people who know me would say I am in complete lack off. Hm. The second has to do with planning; to plan your time according to nature and not the other way around. And for a person who wants to plan everything, this is a big challenge.
Yet, I think these are two of the reasons I feel in love with surfing, because it teaches me how to be patient and to live in the moment. I’m never as happy as when I catch a wave, because I never know how long it will be until I get another one.
You travel where the swell is, sometimes you have to go to the other side of the earth, sometimes it’s in you backyard. For this challenge I had planed a week on Norway’s west coast, but just days before the trip the weather turned and the swell that I had hoped for was not to find in Norway, but in my backyard at Torö. It was the same with the trip that me and Lisa took to prepare for this challenge, to Lanzarote. The whole week, we had a storm blowing all the waves away. This is the bitter sweet life of surfing, you go where the swell is, and sometimes nature pulls your leg.
Staring with the Polar exhibition that you can read about here, Sony is challenging me to complete a series of extreme activities. During the challenges, I tests Sony’s products too see if they endure the rough conditions. (It’s a dream come true, yes). The Sony Challenge for me this time is to do a hang five. A trick I haven’t even come close to, but on the other hand a year a go I didn’t think I would be where I am today with my surfing. I love to challenge myself and to be able to do a hang five would put a smile on my face for the rest of the year. To document my challenge I have a waterproof action cam and a water resistible phone, the new Xperia Z3+. It’s thin, light, waterproof, the battery lasts for days – and the camera is sick!
Wish me luck? I need it! I’ll keep you posted.
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